There is very little that has not been said about the exceptional food in Etto on Merrion Row. To be honest I don’t really have a lot to add.  Many with superior food knowledge to me have sat at its tables and filed newspaper column inches with praise. What I will do however, is take a moment to gush for a few lines about a recent lunch I enjoyed with my friend Katia. Lunch is served from 12pm to 2.45pm and the menu changes quite regularly.  There is value to be had too, with two courses for €20 and three for€25.  The portion sizes are ample, the service is friendly, professional and swift and you will leave your lunch feeling extremely satisfied.

We kicked off with chats and perfectly baked bread that had a crust you needed to squint your forehead  to tear through with your teeth.  It was the kind of bread that I’m sure the man himself (Jesus) would keep to himself, rather than break and pass around to a gang of lads. It’s the only thing they don’t make in-house I was advised.

For my starter I went with the Stracciatella (cheese) served with celeriac, truffle honey, hazelnut, mushroom and lovage (the leaves).  The dish was a clever mix of flavours and textures which worked in symphony together.  I won’t lie, a starter it may have been, but I would have eaten two of them. Lamb, I love it.  Legs, shoulders, knees and toes, I’ll eat the lot.  Lamb reminds me of Sunday dinners in my Nanny’s. Her favourite cut was a leg, and lamb just satisfies me greatly.  Braised lamb shoulder doesn’t just give you a nod of Spring, it smacks you right in the face and screams SPRING TIME IS HERE. I’m very very okay with that.

The meat was tender as…………. well as tender as a lamb and the braising had enhanced the flavours.   It was served with aubergine, black olive and wild garlic and it was sublime from start to finish.  I felt no shame running my finger around the plate to soak up the last morsels of it.

To round off lunch I ordered the bitter chocolate pot which was served with amarena (Italian) cherries, créme fraiche and a pistachio biscuit.  For a chocolate pot, it was the perfect size. There was enough cherry to chocolate ratio to pair them right to the end.  How was it?  it was a triumph.

So to finish my gushing, let me just say that Etto is doing everything right.  If you haven’t been yet, make it your business to go.  You can find them at 18 Merrion Row and they are open Monday to Wednesday from 12pm to 9.30pm, Thursday and Friday 12pm to 10pm and Saturday from 12.30 to 10pm.  They close Sundays and bank holidays.