Disclaimer: Kilkenny Tourism organised the full itinerary and covered the costs of this trip. I was a guest. All thoughts, opinons and photographs are mine, unless otherwise stated.

Hurricane Lorenzo was knocking on Ireland’s door but that wasn’t going to stop me. If Dorothy and Toto can survive a tornado and end up in the land of the yellow brick road, well by God I was going to make my trip to Kilkenny, the land of yellow and black. 

The bag was packed, as was the itinerary for the trip, all prepared by the Kilkenny Tourism team.  With the Taste The Island campaign in full swing, Ireland’s counties are showcasing their offerings like never before.  As a lover of all thing’s food, wine and exploring, I was delighted to get involved this year.   

Now is Kilkenny a city or a town?  The pressing matter of discussion in the car as Kilkenny Castle (where we would visit later) soared imposingly in front of us.  Town, I said. Wrong.  Kilkenny is a city, along with Dublin, Cork, Limerick, Waterford and Galway.  I’m fine with being wrong. No really, I am. 

The city has a lot to offer in terms of history, heritage and hospitality and here is how we spent our time. 

Day 1 – A Late Lunch 

Lunch was booked in the Kilkenny Hibernian Hotel for 3pm. A four-star hotel on the medieval mile, walking distance to the city’s main attractions.  With Harper’s Restaurant closed for the day we nestled in the comfortable surrounds of the Hibernian Bar.  At the risk of looking like a tourist fresh off the bus, an order of goat’s cheese tartlet and traditional Irish stew (my photo is a little redish in colour due to lighting) was made. Within minutes we were deep in conversation with Ina, a lovely lady who had settled in Kilkenny via Dublin, London, India and Portugal. 

Between bites our table of two became three. Ina was a regular in the hotel. Two glasses of Sauvignon Blanc (New Zealand of course) along with half portion of fish and chips her firm favourite. She had a story to tell and we were happy to listen. Two hours later we said our goodbyes, fed well, watered and heartened by the welcome. (Starters from €6 and mains from €12) 

Lyrath Estate 

Lyrath Estate has the long winding drive that only country houses can pull off. Through the trees you catch a glimpse of what lies ahead, and you can’t help but feel a little eager. A 17th century estate house with a bright red door, sprawling with ivy, which claws it back to its roots, its merged with a modern extension, housing a spa, leisure centre, 140 bedrooms and a convention centre. This would be our home for two nights. 

The Lyrath extension is like Room to Improve but on a grander scale. You are not quite sure about Dermot adding those double height floor to ceiling windows, until you are looking out of them.  Modern and majestic it retains enough character to feel stately and still offers first class dining and facilities. 

Our room had a balcony and views of the grounds. I’m immediately overcome with al fresco notions, like only us Irish can be. I insist on a glass of wine outdoors, despite the chill. I managed a half a glass before retreating indoors. I won’t lie Lyrath is fancy. Very fancy. There is enough marble in the bathroom to make the ancient Greeks jealous and a separate dressing room area.  I felt like Lord Grantham and almost waited for Bates to unpack my bag for me.  Lyrath Estate is about comfort, relaxing and beds big enough that you can be a starfish all night without being bothered.  

Intentions of a dip in the pool before dinner were quickly abandoned, in favour of pints by the fire in Tupper’s Bar. One pint became two, became three, until it was time for dinner.  The Grill Bar was bustling with diners as we were shown to a table by those aforementioned double height windows. Having more of my notions earlier, I had specifically asked for the table, thinking I’d be playing Lord of the Manor looking over my estate.  No, it was dark now and the window was a black sheet of glass. All I could see was my own reflection and the beers seemed to have distorted that slightly.  I suspect Dermot would have added some outdoor lights and a firepit if he was involved in the renovation. 

The menu is a veritable who’s who of The Field, The Land and the The Sea.  I’m not great with too much choice.  I settle on what I want, then order something completely different when put on the spot. I’m 100% sure I’m having the seafood chowder followed by Hereford beef cheek.  Out of my mouth come the words, ‘I’ll have the pork ribs followed by seared sea bass please’. My guest was more assured and followed through with his order of Fritto Miso (lemon sole calamari) and a sirloin steak.  

Service was splendid and the food exceptional.  As I gently tugged the pork from its ribs, I took a moment to savour the surrounds. The Grill Bar was buzzing. I had food in my belly, wine in my glass and life was good.  It got better with seabass, and full to the brim I declared I had no space for dessert. Naturally I ordered a lemon posset with meringue and berries and cleaned the plate.  Full as fools we headed to bed complete with food baby twins.  Typical, the hotel came with a turn down service and there were chocolates on the pillow, but not for long. (Midweek rooms from €160 per night)

Day 2

Despite the previous evenings indulgence we managed to make the most of the buffet breakfast before the ten-minute taxi trip back into Kilkenny city. 

11am Cake Face

Lorenzo was starting to have his way and the weather was turning. Cake Face however wasn’t long putting a smile on our faces. A charming local patisserie run by Laura and Rory Gannon. The offering, a shop packed with delectable pastry wonders with vibrant colours of lemon and pink and orange. Pastries with names like Fill Me Up Peanut Butter Cup, Sassy Strawberry and the one that got my palms sweating, Miss Lemon Rose. Baked scones, biscuits and marshmallows filled another counter and fresh tea and coffee was brewing in the background.  Cake Face is both home to locals where the staff know your order when you walk in, and a wonderland for visitors looking for an indulgent treat. 

12pm Smithwick’s Experience

The oldest beer in Ireland our guide declared.  Older than Guinness who subsequently bought it, and who are both now owned by Diageo. The Smithwick’s Experience right in the heart of Kilkenny City is part storytelling, part interactive and thoroughly enjoyable. It includes a journey back to the time of monks and medieval Kilkenny. An introduction to the Smithwick’s family and the brewery, which are woven into the fabric of Kilkenny city. Smithwick’s has been brewed in Ireland since 1710 and is apparently Ireland’s most popular ale. We all know every brewery tour ends with a pint in the bar and ours was no different. (Adult tickets are €16)

1.30pm Truffles

European dishes with a focus on local and Irish suppliers, with meats from Pat Mullins Butchers, flours and grains from Kells Wholemeal and seafood from Kish Fish. Dishes they declare that are ‘sautéed in passion and garnished with pleasure’.  They were true to their word.  We skipped starters after our Cake Face fill and went straight to mains. A roast chicken and gnocchi primavera served with a white wine and herb jus was a splendid comfort dish full of flavour.  A hefty chunk of roasted fresh cod served with seasonal vegetables as the second main filled what space was left over from the 11am pastries.  The Truffles team are passionate about their food, have won many awards, such as YesChef and RAI, and somehow manage to keep the cream carpet in their restaurant spotless. Mains from €12.50 to €15.

 4pm Kilkenny Castle

The wind was whipping up and the rain was pouring down as we made our short walk to Kilkenny Castle.  A formidable fortress smack bang in the centre of town. It’s been in use for over 800 years and has hosted notable characters such as Strongbow in times gone by and HRH Charles, Prince of Wales as recent as 2017.  The castle is open for either guided (€12) or self-guided tours (€8) throughout the year, and at a leisurely pace will take you about 30 minutes to complete. Points of interest include the tapestry room in the North Tower, the library on the first floor and the Moorish staircase on the second floor.  

The Picture Gallery is of course the highlight of the castle with its impressive arched roof, paintings and tapestries. I’m told it, and the Long Room in Trinity College Dublin are considered the longest rooms in Ireland. For something to delight the horror fans out there, the Victorian nursery with its Annabelle looking dolls and rocking chairs, is sure to give you the creeps. 

No visit to the castle is complete without a visit to the tea rooms and a stroll around the grounds, which comprise 21 hectares of land.

7pm La Rivista

A five-minute walk from the castle you will find La Rivista on Parliament Street.  An Italian restaurant using the finest of ingredients. Not long open for service, we secure the window seat and settle in for an Italian feast, with a side order of people watching. A chicken risotto is full of flavour and a welcome warmth to Lorenzo, who was kicking up a fuss again outside.  Pan fried tiger prawns served in a garlic, lemon and chilli butter, on taste, deliver silence. The butter is so good my fellow diner is actually gobsmacked.  No easy task let me tell you.  I try it. I agree. La Rivista has hit its home run with the starters.  Mains of fish and chips and sirloin steak don’t disappoint and there is no room at the inn for desserts today. Starters from €5.95 to €11.95, mains from €16.95 to €27.95. 

10pm Nightcaps at Tupper’s Bar & Back to Dublin 

After a day of exploring the city we returned to Tupper’s Bar back in Lyrath Estate. Two gins, two chairs and one roaring fire later we were suitability satisfied and fit for bed.  

Buffet breakfast with garden views set us up for the trip back to Dublin.  Kilkenny had spoilt us, entertained us, fed us, watered us and was sending us packing completely charmed by its city.   

Planning a Visit? 

Kilkenny is proud, and rightly so of its offerings. From history to tourist attractions, to food and drink producers and an abundance of events throughout the year, it’s a city worth visiting. Now in its 13th year the Savour Kilkenny Food Festival is coming up October 22nd to 28th.  Expect cookery demonstrations from Darina and Rory Allen, Steven Lamb of River Cottage, Kevin Dundon and Kevin Thornton. Throughout the festival local businesses will be hosting a series of food and drinks events to cater for every taste. Siobhan Donohoe and Edward Hayden will be MCing the Savour Stage and the program features a weeks’ worth of workshops, talks, demonstrations, dinners and entertainment.