This piece was featured in the travel section of the Irish Daily Mail.
The Italians, the French, or any of those folks on ‘The Continent’ as my Dad used to call it, always just seem so effortlessly stylish. So, at a risk of being outdone and letting the entire of Ireland down, while packing my bag for a few days away in France, I made sure my beret was included. Afterall, I would hate to turn up in France and look like a thick (without one) as my Ma would say.
Now we all know Paris has long been considered the glittering grand dame of France. The city of romance, fashion and intrigue. The city of the Eiffel Tower, the Seine River and the Arc De Triomphe. I however was not going there. I was flying to Bordeaux, the bustling belle of a city on the Garonne River. The city of stunning architecture, luscious public parks and fabulous food. It is also the gateway to Saint Émilion, the land of vines and wines which was my ultimate destination.
Flight time from Dublin to Bordeaux is about one hour forty minutes, or three mini bottles of wine and a panini away, if measured in onboard food and drink. Both AerLingus and Ryanair flying to Bordeaux-Mérignac airport so you can get yourself there and back quite economically. My trip, during the second week of September cost €55 one way with AerLingus and €18 on the way back with Ryanair, cheaper than the aforementioned mid-air snacks. On arrival you can take the 30’Direct bus into the city for €8 and it will leave you at Gare de Bordeaux Saint-Jean. Connect there for the train to Saint Émilion which is less than forty minutes away and will cost you about €16 return.
As Sophia Petrillo (The Golden Girls) would say “picture it”. Stepping off the train, you are immediately immersed in rolling hills of luscious lines of green vines. The air is warm and the only sound to be heard is the departed train in the distance. Picturesque has probably lost its meaning to stock photos on postcards, but my God, Saint Émilion sure is picturesque.
From the station you get the first glimpse of the limestone walls and steeple of the church, which stands in the centre of the town, nuzzled in the greenery of the vineyards in the distance. It’s a short stroll to the village, which unfurls itself in a series of winding turns where tarmac roads give way to cobbled streets. I’m already spellbound and can’t resist stopping at Le Médiéval, a traditional French restaurant at the foot of the village. Ivy climbs the walls and the terrace is filled with early evening diners who sit at tables adorned with red and white gingham cloth. Its fabulously French and glasses of wine and baskets of bread are soon filling our table.
Two glasses later and the hotel called to see where we were, having told them we would arrive by five. It’s easy to get distracted by wine here. We were staying in Hotel Au Logis Des Remparts right in the heart of medieval Saint Émilion, which is incidentally a UNESCO World Heritage site. A charming boutique hotel with cosy rooms. Set in landscaped gardens which include a pool and secluded terraces where you can enjoy coffee and wine throughout the day. A twin room for two nights, complete with macrons on the pillows cost you €350.
Favouring exploring the streets in search of a dinner destination instead of pre booking anything, we found ourselves at Le Bouchon. One of a handful of eateries around Place du Marché, a large square at the foot of the monolithic church dating back to the 12th century. Wrapped in blankets in the cool of the night we opted for a sommelier tasting selection of three wines each for €15 (followed by two bottles) and some delicious duck dishes. Parmentier de canard, succulent shredded duck topped with creamy puréed sweet potato served on a bed of mixed leaves and duck confit sleeves with crisp fries. Excellent local bistro dishes served in perfect people watching surrounds.
Our visit was for two nights and the guts of three days. Determined to make the most of it we traipsed off to the tourist office to see what culture (other than wine) we could fit in. First up was an underground tour to explore the heritage and origins of Saint Émilion. Named after the monk Émilion, who apparently performed the miracle of turning wood into bread. Not quite as impressive as Jesus with his water into wine, that miracle I can fully get onboard with.
The tour includes a visit to the hermitage of Saint Émilion, the Trinity Chapel adorned with medieval paintings, the nearby catacombs and of course the truly impressive underground church. It’s a stunning feat of architecture rising to a height of 12 metres. An interesting point about the church, it is still used for induction ceremonies for The Jurade, who are the Brotherhood of wine of Saint Émilion. 140 Jurats adorned in red caps and robes act as ambassadors for the wines of Saint Émilion. Think Eyes Wide Shut, with no sex, but with added wine. The tour will cost you €9, is bookable at the tourist office and runs for about an hour.
Following on from that religious mention, it is undoubtedly an act of sacrilege if you find yourself in Saint Émilion and don’t visit a winery. There are many to choose from and whether you are walking or driving you are never more than a stone’s throw from a château willing to open its doors to you. Throughout the year the tourist office run château of the day. Its an initiative designed to encourage visitors to explore vineyards and take part in tastings. Every day between two and four properties will be listed. Usually the visit itself is free and a tasting can be paid for on arrival, ranging from €7 to €15. To book you simply ring them directly and they will let you know if you can visit on the day.
We chose Château Guadet on Rue Guadet right in the centre of the village which dates back to 1844. Our host, Guy-Petrus Lignac who lives with his wife Catherine in the house on the estate is heavily involved in both the vineyard and the town. As well as being the château’s resident oenologist, he serves as president of the Tourist Office of Saint Émilion. The vineyard was certified fully organic in 2013 by Ecocert, a growing trend among winemakers. Our group was small, the two of us, two other Irish people (because you can’t go anywhere) and two natives of Brooklyn. While our backs were turned our host somehow managed to hang both the Irish and American flags in the garden where we waited to start our tour. A novel touch and I did wonder how many flags he had stored in his secret collection.
Guy was a gregarious host who guided us through the wine making process with charm, wit and knowledge in abundance. Our tour included a visit to the extensive cellar, cut into the limestone under the house. We were given a strict total of four minutes in the cellar, no more, lest our body temperature disturb the tightly controlled temperature. It was more wine run than stroll but still plenty of time to spot the thousands of bottles of wine from varying years neatly piled throughout the cellar. Oh, to be locked in there for a few hours! To round off our visit we gathered in the garden beneath the trees to begin the tasting part. Stunning Saint Émilion Grand Cru Classé wines tantalised our taste buds and left us ripe for more. The tour which had us drinking wine at 11am was a highlight and a steal at €15. Tours run from 10 in the morning to 6 in the evening every day of the year. If you are swayed, Guy will also ship his wines direct to your door and knock the tour price off the cost if you buy two or more bottles.
Those four minutes dashing through the cellar had burned enough calories to perfectly prepare us for our next delve into local culture, this one edible. Off to the nearest patisserie we went to acquaint ourselves with the world of Canelé. A delectable French pastry flavoured with rum and vanilla. The centre of which was a succulent soft tender custard, and the outside a dark thick caramelised crust. They do say the best things come in threes so, we sat there and ate three each, purely for research purposes of course. Besides it would be rude to visit France and not try at least a few pastries.
Our culture vulture needs, not yet satiated, we wandered the outskirts of the town to see the Grandes Murailles (Great Wall), Porte Brunet (Brunet Gate) and remparts, Couvent des Ursulines and Porte et Maison de la Cadène (Cadene’s Gate). Saint Émilion is not a big village but walking around it you will find all manner of meandering streets which treat you to new discoveries.
That is exactly how we discovered the enchanting La Cabane d’Amélie on Rue des Girondins. A tapas bar and restaurant set back from the street in a quaint courtyard. The back wall was filled with vines of plump tomatoes growing on it, some of which I spotted being picked for the menu. Seating was a mix of formal tables, wine barrels and mismatched stools. We immediately felt at home. Favouring Rosé in the warm afternoon sun we perused the menu while baskets of bread were slathered in butter. Our pit stop became a leisurely lunch and we ordered a piled high charcuterie board and a mountain of melon slices matched with Parma ham.
Saint Émilion is a stunning wine lovers paradise. Every street has a wine shop selling the best of wines. They will happily ship it home for you too at a moderate cost. Even if you are not that enamoured with wine, the villages natural charm and beauty will keep you content. Saint Émilion is a place where you can while away the days, sitting in the square drinking coffee (or wine), taking in the sights and visiting the many wineries around the village. With easy access to the village via the train it’s a welcome alternative to the standard city break and well worth a visit. I know I’ll be back.
